The Balkans is the most mysterious part of continental Europe, a real treasure box. Travelers are brought here by a mix of history (there are traces of the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires and the massive influence of Soviet Yugoslavia), cultures and breathtaking views. We have compiled a few ideas for the Balkan #adventuretour: scenic railways, abandoned Olympic sites and monuments of the former Yugoslavia, hiking trails and scars of war.
Trains and ferries
The mountainous landscape and rich in unexpected turns history both contributed to the unique Balkan transport situation. The usual stereotypes do not work here: a (relatively) quick way to get from point A to point B is a bus or a minibus. The railway, on the contrary, is often a source of thrills and a pretty good way to be late.
The railway from Belgrade to Bar, for example, was built during the reign of Josip Broz Tito. The first train on the line was Tito’s luxurious personal train, which served him as a mobile office and a meeting place with world leaders, the Queen of Great Britain included. Now you can see this train at Topcider station outside Belgrade, but you will drive to Bar in far more modest
conditions. It takes about 12 hours to reach the Adriatic coast, several hours delays are frequent due to the poor condition of roadways, but the landscape outside the window is impressive. The most stunning views are on the Montenegrin part, including one of the highest railway bridges in the world over Mala Rijeka.
Another route with unique views passes through the north of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Until recently, ancient Swedish trains cruised between Sarajevo and Mostar, with velvet armchairs and ashtrays in the armrests. Now they’re replaced by Spanish Talgo express trains. Through windows, you can observe the Neretva river canyon for three hours straight and be amazed by the emerald color of its water.
The subtle art of transport adventures would be incomplete without water route in the north of Albania on Lake Koman. You can set off either on an old boat with the locals (and often goats), or wait for the modern ferry. Once, it was the only way to travel from the north of Albania to the center of the country. Nowadays with the road through the mountains built, its logistic importance is lessened. But the beauty of the journey lasts and attracts travelers.
Looking for stories
The polyphony of cultures and historical contexts fascinates traveler during the Balkan journey. You’ll see minarets, Austro-Hungarian architecture, Catholic churches, former Venetian cities, and dilapidated medieval castles. A separate unique experience, somewhat disturbing but intense, is to see traces of the recent war. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, you will find many signs of what happened 25 years ago: traces of shrapnel on the walls of houses, decaying buildings, the world-famous banner “Don’t Let Them Kill Us” from the 1993 Miss Besieged Sarajevo in the historical museum of Sarajevo. The destroyed in war times cable car to Mount Trebević in Sarajevo was reopened in 2018. So it’s much easier now to get to a unique object — an abandoned bobsled track, built for the 1984 Winter Olympics.
The abandoned monuments of the former Yugoslavia can also deeply impress. In the 50s, Broz Tito initiated the construction of around sixty monuments on battlefields and areas of former concentration camps. Today, they take the breath away due to a combination of size, its brutalist forms, and symbolism. The most accessible sites to visitors are the Partisan cemetery in Mostar, Kosmaj Monument near to Belgrade and the Stone Flower at the site of the Jasenovac concentration camp.
Hiking and bike trails
The Balkans are a great place for hiking of any kind of difficulty, from easy mountain stroll to challenging multi-day trails. A good starting point for short walks are the villages of Kotor Bay or Tivat in Montenegro (in this case, they can be easily combined with a weekend by a sea). Experienced hikers may choose Via Dinariсa Trail, which runs through seven countries
from Slovenia to Albania. Among the most spectacular sites is the National Park Prokletie on the Montenegro-Albania border or Durmitor in Montenegro. National Geographic magazine believes the Balkans to become one of the best hiking destinations in the world.
If you prefer biking over walking, the Balkans have something special to offer you. In the 70s, the Yugoslav authorities closed the unprofitable narrow gauge railways built under Austro-Hungary in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today the old roads transform and start a new life. In 2015, in the south of Bosnia, the 160-kilometer bicycle trail Ciro was launched. Now cyclists can drive from Dubrovnik to Mostar along the former railroad, diving into the old tunnels and moving along the old railway bridges.
Survival kit
The Balkans consists of ten countries; each of them has its currency, transport system, border rules, etc. We crafted five tips to make your Balkan journey more predictable.
- Money. Remember that currencies vary and it is rather problematic to exchange the foreign one even in the neighboring country. So if you find yourself with a large sum on hand, it is better to change money before crossing the border. Carry cash: small shops and bus stations rarely accept cards.
- Internet. You may need an international SIM card for mobile Internet if you plan to visit several countries and don’t want to stockpile local sims. It will help to avoid roaming charges and also solve any problem quickly if “something goes wrong” (This is the Balkans!)
- On the road. Bring your food, water, and napkins (maybe, even hand soap). There are no bars in Balkan trains and (sometimes) other blessings of civilization are also absent.
- Driving car. While planning logistics, remember about narrow mountain roads and specific driving culture (especially in Albania). If you are a novice driver, maybe, renting a car is not a good idea.
- Information. Check important information – schedule, routes, and location of bus stops – by talking to people. This is the Balkans!